


As I have done in the past, I will write about different presentations that I use at different times of the year to catch river walleyes. One not so glamorous but very key method that I will touch on in this report is a simple live bait rig.
The rig itself consists of very basic terminal tackle made up of a 3-way swivel, a small bell sinker and a #2 aberdeen hook. Most generally I will present this outfit with a 6 1/2' Med. action spinning rod/reel spooled with very low stretch 8# mono. Leaders to the main hook will be 8-10# mono. and to the sinker 6# mono.
This rig can be used any time but times of transition are when I turn to it to put fish in the boat when other methods won't. When we are making the turn from winter to spring or summer to fall, there seems to be a small window when this really shines. I usually won't use this for long periods of time but for a few days at a time when we have had a change in season or a water level fluctuation it is very affective.
Rigging can be used either trolling or from an achored boat. I fish from a prone position less than most but really prefer to anchor up when using this presentation in these small time frames. The first key is finding a likely seam or drop off. Getting the boat positioned above or just over the area is next, whether you are going to cast or fish close to the boat will determine the positioning. In shallower situations I like to get it away from the boat (e.g. 12' or less). Deeper than this will warrant fishing closer to the boat at about a 45 deg. angle.
When anchored shallow I like to match sinker depth to the current speed. Using just enough sinker to let the rig drift at the speed of the current on a sideways cast. Usually I am in the 1/4 to 1/2 oz. range. It is very important to play with this until you find the right combination of weight to match the current. Too much weight and the rig stays pinned to the bottom and will not swing with the current and too little weight lets the whole thing blow out with no bottom contact. It is also critical after making your cast that you keep your rod tip high just as if you were throwing a jig. This keeps as much line off the water as possible and allows you to feel the rig as it works its way downstream. Many times a bait simply stopping its downstream path or a feeling a slight tick in the rod are your only signs of a bite. It is important to realize that you are using this method because the fish are in somewhat of a negative mood and bites usually won't be wrist shaking.
As I mentioned earlier I do like aberdeen hooks. I prefer these because they seem to penetrate the bony roof of the walleyes mouth better than most thicker wire hooks. If you do go this route be aware when fighting larger fish. You can't put a ton of pressure on bigger fish or the hook will straighten out. Just a small trade off for more hookups and when you do get that heavier than normal fish on, just don't lean on him too hard and take your time.
Lastly I do prefer minnows for bait on this rig at these times. I do fish willow cats, crawlers and leaches on these rigs at other times of the year but for the transition in and out of the cold water times I do prefer fat heads for bait.
I know I sound like I only use this method because I have to and this is not true at all. I really enjoy catching fish on these back to basic rigs. Something kind of neat about catching fish on such a simple rig in our modern day high tech world of walleye fishing.